It’s Carnival in Milan! Confetti is scattered on the street, costumes of all sorts fo the young-uns are on display in shop windows, the Luna Park in Parco Sempione is in full swing, and bakery trays are filled with delightful treats like tortelli, fried dough-balls plain or with assorted fillings, and chiacchiere, crispy ribbons of fried dough either plain or covered in powdered sugar. As Lent means fasting, these treats were prepared in the build-up to the church’s solemn period so that observers could indulge before cutting back.
You can learn more about Milan’s Carnival treats by tuning in to the latest episode of my podcast, The Milano Files, released on March 4. I also discuss how Milan’s Carnival carries on a little longer–four more days to be precise- than the rest of Italy’s. The city’s archdiocese follows the Ambrosian rite, for which Lent officially begins on the Sunday after Ash Wednesday, so the Milanesi (and a few other Lombards) celebrate Sabato Grasso or Fat Saturday instead of Martedi Grasso, or Fat Tuesday.
This means four extra fritter-filled days, and here, in no particular order, are 20 bakeries in Milan where you can avail yourself of some of the best versions of typical Carnival treats.
Marchesi 1824
This historic pastry shop does not only some of the finest pastries in town but also sublime iterations of many Lombard and northern Italian dolci. The tortelli are of particular note, and they also make a delightful barbajada! Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a; Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II; Via Montepaleone 9, website
Pavé
Offers tortelli only, and they come in a round container labeled “Tortelli Super Wow” with either cream or chocolate filling. Via Felice Casati, 27; website
Peck
This beloved gourmet shop in Milan’s historic center prepares top versions of everything, and the Carnival tortelli and chiacchiere are no exception. Via Spadari 9; website
Marcello Rapisardi
The Milano Files podcast guest Marcello Rapisardi does some of the finest classic and innovative treats in town.
Piazzale Bacone 10; website
Pastiricio Ratanà
This pastificio in Isola from chef Cesare Battisti of Ratanà (a Milano Files guest) and his team specializes in not only fresh pasta and gastronomia-style eats but also baked goods – including Carnival treats. Via Pastrengo 2, website
Dolce e Salato Il Forno di Roberto
You can taste the evasive chiacchiere with zucchero semolato (or caster sugar) here – along with other variations. Via Caradosso 19, no website
Ernst Knam
The bakery’s eponymous German transplant has been satisfying Milanesi sweet toothes since his 1992 opening. Via Anfossi, 10, website
Davide Longoni
One of the city’s best-known names for bread (and not only)! He now has several locations (including an outpost at Mercato Centrale), but his flagship is in Porta Romana.
Via Gerolamo Tiraboschi, 19; website
Pasticceria Lorini
Beloved neighborhood staple for over 40 years – there’s always a line out the door.
Via Castel Morrone, 23; website
I Dolci Namura
This lovely family-run bakery uses a generations-old recipe for its chiacchiere.
Via Castelvetro 16; website
Officine del dolce
If you’re heading to Fondazione Prada, make a detour at this beloved south Milan bakery – they have exceptional gluten-free eats too.
Via Tagliamento 2 on the corner of Corso Lodi) website
L’Arte del Dolce
Another south Milan bakery worth a stop if you’re heading to Fondazione Prada.
Piazzale Corvette 7; Corso Lodi 71; website
Pasticceria Cucchi
This epic, nearly 90-year-old institution near the Navigli and Ticinese neighborhoods never disappoints on the Carnival front – they even sell a Carnival cookie decorating kit. Corso Genova 1; website
Sissi
For over 30 years, Sissi has been a staple of Milan’s Risorgimento neighborhood.
Piazza Risorgimento, 6; website
Panzera
This historic pastry shop opened in 1906 and is still in the same family.
Viale Monte Santo 10, website
Giovanni Galli
Opened in 1911, this historic center gem of a confectioner prepares fine versions of Milan’s Carnival treats.
Via Victor Hugo, 2; website
Farina del mio sacco
There’s something endearingly old-fashioned and undeniably modern at this beloved neighborhood gem on the outskirts of Porta Venezia and Città Studi.
Via Eustachi 17; no website
Pasticceria Martesana
A historic pastry shop founded in 1966 with a few outposts around town, including one at Mercato Centrale.
Via Giovanni Cagliero, 14; Via Paolo Sarpi, 62 (Chinatown); Corso di Porta Romani 121 (Porta Romana) website
Giacomo Pasticceria
The Giacomo group’s sweets are definitely one of its strong points, especially at Carnival.
Via Sottocorno 5; website
Pasticceria Clivati
A beloved 50-year-old bakery near the Navigli that keeps evolving with the times.
Viale Coni Zugna, 57 website
