So, I’ve updated this blog post about pan dei morti, or bread of the dead, that a friend, Federica Sacchi, contributed in 2016. The latest episode of my podcast, the Milano Files, is all about the dolce, which was traditionally served on November 2nd, or All Soul’s Day. Nowadays, pan dei morti is a tell-tale sign of October in not only Milan but all of Lombardy. You can find it through the first week of November at the latest.
To listen to the podcast episode, click here, or you can find it on all major streaming platforms like Apple, Spotify, Amazon Music, I Heart Radio, etc. Federica introduced me to pan dei morti, so below you’ll find some of her pastry shop pics for some of the best in town, along with mine. Btw, I fully with her choices. I’ve initialed who wrote what accordingly, and they’re listed in no particular order, just alphabetically.
Farina del mio sacco
This bakery, which has also won many prizes for its bread, makes the most delicious focaccia and wonderful pasta frolla cookies and pan dei morti. website FS
I Dolci Namura
I loved dropping into this spot in my old neighborhood for anything, especially breakfast or an aperitivo, and, come October, pan dei morti. They also have plenty of vegan and gluten-free goods. website JD
Marchesi 1824
This classic pastry shop turned 200 this year! There’s plenty to satisfy one’s sweet tooth here, in addition to pan dei morti. Spoiler alert: if you join me for a Milan food tour during pan dei morti season, you just might get to try theirs. website JD
Panificio Damiani
This is the panificio I always think about when I think of pan dei morti. It’s a simple panificio at the corner of my street, I used to buy my merenda there at the end of classes in middle school (which is on the opposite street corner). Fun fact: there’s always been a panificio in the place Damiani occupies, since at least the 1960s. No website, but the address is Via Froppa 41. FS
Panificio Davide Longoni
Davide Longoni is famous for his bread, among other delightful baked goods, so it’s no surprise that his pan dei morti is spot on. website JD
Pasticceria Rapisardi
In addition to pan dei morti, Milano Files guest Marcello Rapisardi‘s October repertoire also includes holiday-themed gelee, pumpkin cookies, and chocolate pralines filled with a savory pumpkin chestnut filling that taste pretty darn exquisite. website JD
Pasticceria Clivati
The windows of this classic, elegant milanese pasticceria are always very luxurious and mouth-watering. While they make Pan dei Morti in the fall, their delicious chocolate crostata with raspberries is available year-round. website FS
Pasticceria Cucchi
Cucchi needs no introduction! A milanese historic tea room, they make a splendid cappuccino with an array of delicious brioche and a very posh aperitivo. website FS
Pasticceria Lorini
This typical elegant pasticceria is in Porta Venezia, and you can glimpse into the kitchen from the window along the sidewalk. website FS