Vitello Tonnato three ways

Vitello tonnato in Milan three ways

I wasn’t always gung-ho about vitello tonnato until some creative takes on the menu at different restaurants in Milan changed my mind.

So, I have a confession to make: I don’t–or rather, now, didn’t–like vitello tonnato. This veal with tuna sauce preparation is just as Milanese as it is Piemontese as it shows up on many a menu across the Lombard capital. However, the sauce has a mayonnaise base, and if you know me, you know I have an aversion to the popular condiment and how I pretty much shudder every time I come across it. (You can imagine the visceral reaction I had to the scene in “Notting Hill” when Spike spoons mayonnaise directly out of a container and into his mouth. Anyhoo, I digress…)

Also known as “vitel tonné”, the dish consists of a round cut of veal (often the “girello”) that’s been boiled, sliced, and sauced. The dish is practically synonymous with the 1980s, and traditionally, it’s served cold. The tuna sauce also consists of anchovies while capers generally serve as the garnish. I adore these two ingredients, but when I see those delicate meat slices drowning in a murky opaque mayonnaise-based concoction, I just can’t get on board.

Or maybe I should say, I couldn’t–until Trippa opened. Diego Rossi’s vitello tonnato pretty much overnight became the most famous in Milan, a distiction it has maintained for four years and counting. His whipped creamy tuna sauce was the only version I could stomach. And recently, I’ve also noticed some other innovate takes on it as well in which the sauces, while they do have mayo, aren’t very mayonnaise-esque.

So here’s a look at Diego Rossi’s along with some versions from Cesare Battisti of Ratana and the one that Girls at work catering company are serving at Al Cortile through the end of the summer. I know there are others out there, too–I actually contacted a few establishments but, alas, they didn’t respond. I’m sure there are plenty of others out there, too, that I didn’t come across so do feel free to let me know of any notable vitello preparations that I’m missing.

1. Trippa

Here is Diego Rossi’s Vitello Tonnato from Trippa in all its glory!

Vitello tonnato in Milan three ways

Vitello Tonnato in Milan Trippa


I dined at Ratanà my first time in Milan (January 2012) and have been back plenty as I just love it to pieces. Chef Cesare Battisti offers a brilliant contemporary take on La Cucina Milanese. His vitello tonnato, instead of tuna, features palamita, a sustainable fish from Salento, in the sauce. While it does have a mayonnaise base, it’s so beautifully presented that it doesn’t drown out the integrity of the dish and the ingredients. Go taste it!

Vitello tonnato in Milan Ratanà
Vitello tonnato at Ratanà

Al Cortile

The Girls@Work team, an all-female catering company, is cooking at Al Cortile (one of my favorite places in Milan!) through the end of the summer, and they offer a gorgeous twist on the classic: The meat is actually roast beef cut and served as a vitello tonnato with leek oil, sweet and sour scallions, puntarelle, extra virgin olive oil and tuna sauce made of the jus itself, capers and, of course, tuna. I didn’t ordered it, but I tried my friend’s, and I wish I had! Get there before the end of summer to try it.

Vitello Tonnato in Milan Al Cortile
Vitello tonnato at Al Cortile

No Comments

  • Charles says:
    Your comment is awaiting moderation. This is a preview, your comment will be visible after it has been approved.

    In today’s society stress is a serious part of life and can be caused by essential because of anything. The regarding causes of stress is becoming longer by the time frame. Unfortunately most people cannot eliminate the main causes of stress from there survives.

    Whether or not your persistent pain is mild or excruciating, i know it can change your life–and not in a simple way. Chronic pain patients are in danger of depression different mental health challenges with regards to their condition.

    Why do varicose veins arrive? Basically, arteries are designed to take blood belonging to the heart to all the parts belonging to the body, and veins bring the blood back. On the way back up the legs, however, blood must defy gravity to be successful all approach back up to the middle. After a while, even though veins have elasticity to them, they get shot. As you get older, you will see that everything starts to sag place. Pregnant women or obese people are more going to develop varicose veins. Circulation and pressure on lower limbs cause blood flowing go back through the veins to become more almost impossible. Also, those who spend lots of time on his or her feet additional at opportunity. Putting your feet up periodically assists the veins in pumping the blood to the heart, and not as much strain is focused on the veins.

    The next strategy end up being to trick your into dipping into its fat reserves rather just burning up sugars. This will help you build muscles and increase your basal ability. This, in turn, will a person burn more calories along with the day. Stretch before you walk – it makes a difference!

    It may be hard to consciously exercise and eat better, but is certainly much harder to endure getting some pot replacement, open heart surgical treatment or cancer medical care.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *