Prior to moving to Italy, I never would have thought that my love for pizza would know no bounds. However, Dry is one of my regular haunts and I think that Berberè pizzeria in Milan will be another one.
Berberè opened in early October and I had heard great things about the Florence, Turin and Bologna locations, so I couldn’t wait to try the Milan outpost from the pizzaioli brothers Matteo and Salvatore Aloe.
The space is big; it holds about 80 people, and what I loved most about it was its old school feel. I adore the Isola neighborhood, as I feel like it perfectly encompasses the juxtaposition of the old and the new that characterizes Milan. This former working class neighborhood is filled with 19th-century architecture just beside the soaring skyscrapers that are part of the Porta Nuova initiative and the fabled Bosco Verticale (Vertical forest). And with the opening of the M5 metro, Isola got even easier to reach, which is great for Berberè patrons as they don’t have to walk far as it’s right next to the metro stop in a building dating back to 1911. There’s old-school white subway like tiling as well as beige mosaics, all juxtaposed against modern graphic art, wood furnishings and eye catching light fixtures.
The menu features a few cichetti (the Venetian word for small bites) like olives; burrata with anchovies and oregano; and ‘nduja toast. The menu is divided up by the reds (pizza with a tomato base) and the whites (pizza with a fior di latte cheese base). There was also a purple option with a beet cream base.
We wanted to try everything on the menu, but we opted for two whites: pumpkin, mushrooms, parmesan and sage oil and potatoes, asiago d’allevo and pancetta. They offer two doughs, the classic and a special, which was kamut that night. We opted for the classic. The pizzas were served one at a time so we could share.
As I’ve grown to appreciate pizza more since I’ve moved to Italy, I’ve learned how important the crust is. I think I never loved pizza growing up because I wasn’t accustomed to pizza that got the crust right. Their crust is made from a lievito madre and semi-integrale (whole wheat) stone-ground flour. The dough sits for at least 24 hours at room temperature. The result is like magic; both sturdy and light; crunchy and soft. The oven at the Milan outpost is electric instead of wood for legal purposes.
The sweet pumpkin with the earthy mushroom and strong parmesan was perfect, and for me, I love potatoes–and when coupled with carbs, even better–with the salty pancetta and crumbly bits of the slightly sweet, yet sharp, asiago cheese.
For dessert, it was the chocolate topped profiteroles we saw had eyed the other tables. To drink there’s a selection of biodynamic wines and, in true Italian pizza pairing fashion: Italia craft beers.
Via Sebenico, 21
+39 02 3670 7820
Open seven days
Monday – Friday: 7pm – 11.30pm
Saturday and Sunday: 12.30pm – 2.30pm; 7pm – 11.30pm